By John H Harding

fathomTAIWAN

1.   Taiwan is amazing and unique.

2.Fathom’ =  ”for a better understanding”

3. A measure of depth,  one fathom is six feet underwater



I was a free diver and ‘promotions executive’ for a fledging underwater documentary films company for five years in the early era of Australian underwater photography.  We produced and distributed quasi marine educational films, mostly using  just ‘one take’ as 16mm film was expensive.

Much later I was founding editor of the Australian diving magazine “Fathom”;  simultaneously producing underwater film festivals (USA and Australia) and later a single evolving documentary feature length film show for cinema release, (Aquarius, Queensland Seafari, Australian Seafari).

More recently I’ve made annual ‘guest appearances’ as a diver in TV documentary films,  aboard the privately-owned boat “Freedom III” on the far northern Great Barrier Reef, as well as writing narration for, “Tale of a Shark Hunter”.

My present interest is enjoying an Avatar styleSecond Life in Taiwan as often as possible, a pattern that began in 2002.


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ZERO PILOT MAY HAVE BEEN FROM TAIWAN

Taiwan was a Japanese colony until 1945 – Zero aircraft were based here and some presumably were  the Kamikaze’s which attacked American ships off Okinawa.

I’m researching one Japanese pilot who had an interesting story during WWII.  This pilot ran out of fuel and crash-landed on a coral atoll lagoon down near the equator.

I’ve located his grand-daughter now married and living in USA.  That’s about all we know at this stage, plus his name.  He fathered other children on other islands!

His aircraft was 80% intact and in shallow water just off a beach at Nukuoro, Federated States of Micronesia in the Eastern Caroline Islands.

We made underwater pictures of the aircraft during our expedition in 1969, plus 16mm movie footage.

These would make a nice, but short, TV story if we can find additional details on the pilot’s fate after the war.  A remote chance is that he survives today in his late eighties.

Updates here as they happen…….

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THE EARTHQUAKE MEMORIAL – Central Taiwan

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AUSTRALIA VISIT – AYRES ROCK

A dingo is a wild Australian dog. Some years ago a dingo took a small baby from a tent at Ayres Rock. The baby was never found. The mother did three years in jail before being released.  She was later paid $1.3 million in compensation but the ordeal wrecked her marriage and her life. The story was made into a movie starring Meryl Streep.  The case is being reconsidered with a hope of changing the finding of the cause of death from an unknown cause to one where the dingo is blamed.  Dingo’s will steal  shoes to eat if these are left outside at night.

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RADIO STATIONS VIA COMPUTER (plus a video)

click twice to enlarge

Go to www.surfmusic.de then ASIA, then TAIWAN.  Windows Media Player might be necessary and it can be downloaded from the site I noted.

The English station is ICRT - which has few merits, rap music more often than not.  The late-night announcer is a lot of fun though, he raves from 9pm to midnight.  The Chinese girl, part-time weekend announcer with surname LONDON is very attractive and ambitious for a job on CNN, according to her blog.  I have not tuned in for a while.

My choice has been any of the Best Radio stations (listed at top).  An occasional English song might be played.  Otherwise it’s just very pleasant and enjoyable material, especially for when you are not in Taiwan.

We’ve just started a YouTube video site.  First day of the 2010 LANTERN FESTIVAL has been posted,  copy and paste address into your browser:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qII2ndOOxz4

We went to Liberty Square, not knowing the main event was at nearby Sun Yet Sen Memorial Hall.  It didn’t matter.  The daylight activities are worth showing.  Featured something big in the aboriginal calendar.

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DEEP SEA PEARLS – NORTH WESTERN AUSTRALIA

In the Australian winter, a good town to visit is Broome in the North of Western Australia.  It’s on the edge of a great dessert.

Broome is the centre for pearl farming.  Some of my old diving friends got into the business either as divers or in one case as a pearl farmer.

The original divers came from Japan.  The local cemetery has many Japanese graves – some killed while diving.

In the 1970′s there was a switch from hard hat diving to hookah diving. (Which might be simply explained as scuba diving with a hose to the dive boat air compressor instead of a cylinder on your back).

In many respects Broome is a real diver town today.  There are many reminders of this industry in the town.  But it is not a dive tourist town. The tides are huge – ten meters at times.  The ocean is blue but not clear.

It’s been a terrific place to visit in the past.  Camp in a tourist park near the bay.  Get around by bicycle.  (There is only one hill in town).  I’ve spent a couple of months there.   But that’s another story.

I thought I’d mention it here for anyone interested in owning a real cultured pearl one day.  They are not cheap either.

The girl pictured here worked in one of the many retail pearl stores in the small Chinatown area.

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HONEST YOUNG GUY NAMED EDISON

The caption is WRONG, Edison is the smaller guy on the RIGHT!

A couple of years ago I left my credit cards and cash on the counter of a convenience store near Taipei Main Station and just off ChangAn Road.

Edison held it for me until I returned about an hour later.  What a relief to get it back.  I’d just arrived and this was my lifeline.  Replacing cards would have been a drama we all can do without.

Edison is still with the same store.  I hope he becomes a manager or even owns his own shop one day. He’s a good kid.

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SWEET STRAWBERRIES

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TAIWAN TOUGH ANTI-SHARK FIN LAW

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rPFioJeMRO8


APPLIES EVERYWHERE

Any Taiwanese national who breaks provisions of the new law elsewhere in the world will still be subject to punishment in Taiwan

From: www.taipeitimes.com Wednesday, Dec 03, 2008

The Legislative Yuan yesterday passed the Statute Governing Investment and Management of Non-Taiwanese Fishing Boats, which prohibits anyone from investing in non-Taiwanese fishing boats without a permit from the agricultural authorities

Those who make such an investment without first obtaining a permit may be fined between NT$300,000 (US$8,950) and NT$1.5 million.

Under the new law, authorities will also be able to investigate any fishing irregularities by requiring fishing boat investors to present investment details.

Any Taiwanese national found to be involved in fish laundering ― an illegal act to cover up overfishing ― could be jailed from six months to three years and fined up to NT$30 million, while those entering the fishing business overseas without a permit may be sentenced to three years in prison and fined up to NT$10 million.

Those who commit these offenses abroad are subject to punishment in Taiwan, even if the acts are legal where they take place. Violators’ catch and equipment will also be confiscated.

The bill also includes a resolution urging the Council of Agriculture and the Fisheries Agency to engage in international negotiations for a “buffer zone” so the local fishing industry can gradually adjust the average size of its tuna catch.

The International Commission for the Conservation of Atlantic Tunas sanctioned the nation’s deep-sea fishing industry in 2004 and 2005 for dodging the fishing limits by investing in non-Taiwanese fishing boats.

A visit to Dihua Street in Taipei is very interesting.  Herbal medicines and foods galore.  All very entertaining.

Bamboo cat sharks and a carpet shark.  All three are often seen in restaurant aquarium tanks in Taiwan. I do not advise eating shark but these smaller species would be acceptable. The carpet sharks have white meat but all sharks excrete their urine into their blood as a method of maintaining an essential salt balance.  If blood is not quickly released from a caught shark the urine taints the flesh.  This should not be a problem in Taiwan were food handling is professional but a good  tip for amateur fishermen.

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TAIWAN TOM CAT – YILAN COUNTY

Animals are often quick to spot a foreigner and respond accordingly.

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CLAMS IN CHILI SAUCE

One of a table full of delicious seafood dishes selected by my Taiwanese friends. Both delighted in the way I enjoyed local rice with the various seafood sauces. Free rice at this restaurant and better than anything I’ve ever experienced in Australia.

A promotions girl in mini skirt and sparkling eyes encouraged patrons to buy large bottles of Heineken for AUD$3.20

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KING OF THE FISH

There is a golden colored one of this in the foyer of my hotel.  I’m sure it recognizes me when I make a certain movement with my hands.

I made ‘friends’ with the fish by video taping its movements for a few minutes – then playing the images back to the fish.

I’m positive this did something positive.  We underestimate the intelligence of many creatures.

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OWL, TIGER CHEWING GRASS TIPS. TAIPEI ZOO

Filming in the dark with an infra-red light. Judging by the expression on this bird….owls can see the light but we human’s don’t. This was in Taipei Zoo’s nocturnal exhibits.

This beautiful big cat was seen chewing on tips of fresh grass.

Medicine for animals and also people.  Cats and dogs often chew the tips of grass.

A special version of rye grass is being grown by a friend  in Melbourne, Australia with the juice serving a similar medicinal purpose for people.

Oralmat is the product. Google it for details.

It works for many conditions.  It is sold through chemist shops in Australia.

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GRACELANDS Vs. CKS MEMORIAL HALL

Without understanding modern Taiwan history I wrote the following.  At the time there was some criticism of a cult surrounding the former President and dictator.

I could not avoid thinking that Elvis’ memorial at Gracelands would rank a poor second to what has occurred with the memorial for CKS here in Taipei.

This is therefore the views of a new visitor to Taipei and not intended as anything serious but simply memorials to past hero’s, despite their track records.

Today the memorial hall is well attended by some of the one million mainland tourists who are now welcome on the island.  A few years ago there were no such mainland tourists visiting Taiwan.  Japanese visitors also are strong with their attendances, because of the previous colonial interest.

TAIPEI – ELVIS – CKS MEMOIR

Locals point out that USA took over 70 years to become internationally recognized after their civil war. Here there was no war, just a dictator who Elvis would be jealous of.

The dictator liked Cadillac cars as did Elvis, except these were made bullet proof.

Today a wax model of the former dictator sits at an office desk replicating the past- on the far wall plays an endless video – old newsreels of the time in power.

Nothing such as this apparently exists at Gracelands?

I’m told, locals were doing their best to minimise the memory of CKS who was helped with a billion dollars per year from the world’s most powerful country (a lot of money in those times) – the era when communism was the big threat – since replaced by terrorism. And the era of the Korean war.

CKS always believed that one day he would rule China, again.

There was also his beautiful Chinese-born wife, educated in the US who spoke fluent English. One of three daughters of the then richest man in the world, all who attended school in USA.

Madame was a big hit with leading publishers (Time Magazine) and politicians.  She received a standing ovation after addressing US Congress.

Eventually, after husband CKS died, she left Taiwan in a chartered jumbo jet with over 100 boxes of luggage – never accounted for and lived her final years in Manhattan.

May-ling Soong (aka Mei-ling Soong) died aged 106, (yes 106) four years ago.

There was an Australian connection.  Her good friend was an elderly Australian journalist who was credited with saving her life.  He would have written many press releases while alive, on behalf of the Chinese Nationalist Party.

He died in China before the military re-located to Taiwan.

W.H. Donald  (see: http://donaldofchina.com)

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WHAT AUSTRALIANS THINK OF TAIWAN

Here is what I thought of the city six years ago and posted on my Australian underwater blog:


Viewed from the 46th floor of Eastern Plaza Hotel is Taipei 101 showing how it towers above the city.
One might question the logic of building the world’s tallest building in an earthquake prone zone. Obviously the financiers know something, but how about insurance companies?

It all adds to the cost of things. Some floors of the building are yet to be completed inside, the retail shops section is well represented with international brand names but buyers seemed scarcer than the curious visitors.

UPDATE DEC 17 2004. Recent Guinness Book of Records for Taipei 101

1. Tallest building – highest structural height 508 meters
2. Fastest lifts (elevators) 89 floors in 37 seconds – 60 kmp!
3. Highest rooftop height 448 meters
4. Habitable floor height 438 meters

TAIWAN – the elite of Chinese culture

John H. has just completed a third visit to this ‘amazing little island’. Taiwan is an exciting country – ‘something like your first visit to Luna Park at the age of six’ I remarked to a friend when she enquired why I was visiting this almost unknown land (to most colleagues).

A breakaway province of China?   There will be lots of news re Taiwan in the media in the coming months. The future of this island will effect every Australian – and possibly the entire Pacific. This I believe!

Bright neon lights, advertising signs (which you can’t read) and surprisingly, little English used by the local folk, apart from students.

They work hard at studies and have deep feeling for friends and family. There is no welfare system. Young respect and care for the elders. No nursing home ‘death camps’ as in the west. (Good point number one)!

THE ISLAND
Being an island culture the Taiwanese and Chinese have a strong sea tradition, as does Japan, and a very advanced attitude to many marine things from ship design to fishing hooks and even dive gear. Half of the total world production of notebook computers comes from Taiwan, plus semi-conductors galore.

TUCKER TIME
Whale sharks are caught by net or harpoon for quasi-gourmet food. With the texture of tofu or ‘junket’. If you dine at a fisherman’s wharf type outlet, there’s a 30% chance of eating whale shark sold as ‘fish’.
Overall the Taiwanese diet is considerably healthier than the Australian breakfast, lunch or dinner.

Fresh vegetables, rice and almost no cola drinks give it a huge advantage. Coke and Pepsi almost unknown here. Try guava juice instead.

Refined-sugar creeps in elsewhere, and a shocking over-use of pork products. What’s wrong with pork? A living mass of virus’ to start with. Eat at your own peril. (Pigs have just four sweat glands, one on each trotter).

SEAFOOD HAZARDS
Taiwan pufferfish are bred via aquaculture, fed only mackerel they have (interestingly) not developed the usual poisonous characteristic. (Proof that food has a profound effect on life forms, change the diet and change the creature. It applies to humans too).

But the new safer pufferfish is not as popular with diners. The dare and thrill associated with the risk of death from the toxin, especially found in the fish liver was the near fatal attraction.

Seafood is far cheaper than anywhere in Australia. I wondered why during a previous visit. Now I know, it’s aquaculture.

Countless fish ponds are to be seen during the two-hour bus journey to Kenting from Kaohsiung in the south of the island. It’s a huge industry which Australia is keen to embrace. Does this mean more antibiotics in our food? Australia should study and try to learn from any mistakes.

THE BEACH
Kenting is the equal of Australia’s Gold Coast but a day at the beach there may be near nuclear power station number three, and under a rented umbrella on plastic chairs. At night the neon’s make the narrow main street attractive and colourful. Taiwan glows by night. Plenty of power to burn. It’s a wealthy place where individual buying power is spread over many more levels by more classes than in Australia.

If Australia has five levels of wealth to poverty, Taiwan has fifteen. A better distribution of wealth?

SCUBA
Despite all these advancements with the sea, Taiwanese locals are not into diving or surf, yet. There are dive schools with instructors scattered around the north. Much of the world’s diving gear is made here too, but designed in Europe, USA and Japan.

The undersea has been sadly neglected, possibly due to spiritual beliefs in ghosts of ancestors who have drowned being active underwater?

August was the start of the ghost month when paper replica money is burned as an offering to the spirits of relatives.

SIZE MATTERS
All this in an island half the size of Tasmania with a population equal to Australian and New Zealand combined.

Add to this an occasional serious earthquake and a few dozen summer typhoons (cyclones) and you have a volatile land mass. A typhoon is always present in the summer, coming in from Guam where they originate, whipping up 10-12 meter waves.

WEATHER
See www.cwb.gov.tw which has an English version. It’s a great and simple design, better we thought than our Australian service. Serves the interests of the Far Seas Fishing Fleet which is said, now catches more tuna than Japan. You’ll see ocean temperatures, wind directions and heaps of info.

The climate here is on a latitude between Bundaberg and Mackay, with the Tropic of Cancer passing across the island. A sign near the coastal town of Hualien says: “Position of Tropical Cancer”.

Lots of this form of entertainment elsewhere.


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CHICKEN RICE VEGETABLES No address for these

Here is a curried chicken in a spicy curry on rice with vegetables as a take-away. Price NT$60 ($2 Australian).

Separate additional, green vegetables, another NT$30

The best curried food I’ve experienced in this busy city.

Nearby is a KFC and McDonalds. Neither can compete with quality or price at Joseph’s.

I ask for Garley farn chin tai

The Tamsui/Dansui river runs through Taipei and enters the ocean in the north at Dansui. During a recent low tide some people were ‘picking’ rock oysters from a questionable source.

Near the famous Lin Family Mansion & Garden (of historic buildings) are alley’s of eats catering for the many who visit this architectural masterpiece.

After a VIP guided tour of the private sections of Lin’s (by Mr.Vincent Lin in person, home from California) a group of us ventured into one of the budget eateries found everywhere.

The selection here is shredded chicken on rice (left) less than AUD$1. Squid soup (right) about AUD$1.20

A friend told me his story regarding eating squid. Be sure to floss teeth afterwards. He failed to do this which resulted in tooth decay some months later when a trapped piece of tough squid meat caused decay between two teeth – one requiring expensive root canal therapy.

It’s a serious flaw of health systems world-wide to separate dental problems from physical body health.

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FISH DISH – MAYBE FRESHWATER SPECIES

The fish was whole (not gutted) on ice when I selected it. The suggestion to me was for it to be barbecued. OK

What happened out in the kitchen was a lot of work. Scaling, scrubbing clean, coating with salt.

The hidden roe was retained, cooked separate, and presented as shown with a small dish of spice.

The fish species was new to me. The result was delicious. A little like freshwater trout.  (A private function).

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SOFT SHELL CRAB – DEEP FRIED, EAT THE LOT

Taiwan is a former colony of Japan with much influence especially in cooking remaining.

We returned to a restaurant in ChangAn East Road.

Soft-shelled crab is delicious and crunchy. No problem chewing the lot up and amazingly tasty. The large crab is cut into mouthful-sized pieces. They did not last long on the plate.

Our guide was Vincent Lin

Vincent’s  ancestors were influential merchants here establishing Lin Family Mansion & Garden; and Railway Hotel site of  today’s Shin kong Mitsukoshi building today which is (opposite Taipei Main Station, (the 50-floor pink marble landmark building).

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ABALONE SEARCH IN TAIPEI

Many Australian divers went professional abalone diving in the 1960′s – before licenses and regulations.

I was one of them. The price we were paid for fresh abalone, in adjusted values is about 50 times less than what the professional divers are paid today.

Today’s licensed divers have a lot of overheads. A $5 to $7 million license being just one.

New South Wales professional abalone divers have a serious problem. A marine disease (not harmful to human health) effects the health of the abalone and in turn where abs can be harvested and how many can be taken.

The disease which makes the mollusk limp and sick has appeared further south and into the state of Victoria.

In Taipei abalone is sold and advertised everywhere. The Chinese name translating as food for king.

The dried South African abalone is soaked, sliced very thin and cooked with medicinal herbs especially as a treatment for an eyesight problem.

Is only South African abalone suitable? A good question.

The formula of herbs and the nature of the eye problem are details too difficult to inquire about without consulting a Chinese medical practitioner.

The price of dried abalone – is a just under $1 Australian dollar per gram

The medium-sized dried ‘ab’ (above) weighed 88 grams for AUD $80  in Taipei recently. (About NT $2200)

Beware, the acoustics in this place can be terrible when it is packed.

Maria, originally from NE China, now restaurant manager of the Mei Guan Yuan Japanese Restaurant (Since 1946), in Ximen.    Tender (canned) abalone strips with crunchy prawn heads soaked in honey.  Unique as far as I’m concerned.

In a city with superb food everywhere I expect fast food franchises have had their tough times.

Missing western food a little we went for a pizza. Not cheap (AUD $16 approx) but delicious.

Imagine a Lobster and Abalone pizza in Australia. Not likely.

The daily wage for a young person in a convenience store is about AUD $36 here. (NT $1000) Very few of these will spend half of one day’s pay on a pizza.

An indication of the variations of wealth in the city where wages are the envy of the Asian poor and where a big Rolex store has half a million Australian dollars worth of stock in their windows.

Footnote: At the time of sampling, Pizza Hut was using imported cheese powder from China, contaminated with melamine! I’d be surprised if this has not been corrected since then.

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CANTONESE MENU 1950′s SYDNEY

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FISH RIGHTS – DO THEY HAVE ANY?


Nearby, live ‘sand clams’ (in Australia – pippies) in a large dish with flowing water spilling over the sides. The Asian obsession with “live” seafood is a guarantee of freshness – to some extent.

Search for Seafood Soup Taipei video (on YouTube) shows ulcers on the face of the Queensland-type giant groper. That fish has been living in a small seafood restaurant aquarium for too long.

The nearby moral eel had a strange-looking pink-thing growing on the top of it’s nose. I presume the product of living in recirculating water?

Large white sea bass and black cod also shown were at Keelung in a new aquaculture research facility.

I’ve learned some of the White Sea Bass (similar to Australian jewfish/mulloway) had escaped and are a potential threat for smaller local species. The trade-off does not seem all that bad.

The live nautilus shell in the video appeared to be entertaining itself by rocking back and forth. Maybe a sign of protest?

Living in a small glass tank would be a shock after being brought to the surface from 400 feet of deep dark water where the shell lives. Maybe it would be happier if pressurized back to some depth?

Who cares about the rights of sea creatures? Especially anything “small”.  Large creatures such as whales are given heaps of sympathy but little care is given to small sea creatures.  Why is this so?

In time it may become a media  issue.

Such a mission awaits people to pick it up perhaps if and  when shark finning becomes a stale media issue.

Shark finning is already being misquoted to the hilt., a decoy or ploy by those in the business?

The latest  I’ve spotted being red hot knives slicing the fins off.

Next distortion will have the shark screaming as it happens.  Kids would believe that to be possible.

The solution to shark finning is to eat the whole shark, which is happening as white fish populations collapse everywhere around the world.

While sharks are caught there will always be fins for the soup trade.

How about the cruelty of  boiling lobsters, prawns and crabs alive?  Will this ever become an issue?

Aquaculture is obviously experimental with lessons to be learned in controlling the health and wellbeing of those serving a ‘life sentence’ with execution at the end.

**FEATURE** www.taipeitimes.com/News/world/archives/2009/04/21/2003441595
(Large fish ‘tortured’ in Asian restaurant fish tanks).
NOTE: There is a typo error with the value of a cooked one-meter long groper (mis-spelled as garoupa) in Hong Kong.

More likely US $640  not $64,000

Giant Groper (Grouper, or in HK Garoupa)

Brown spotted cod is sometime seen is restaurant fish tanks

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